ONE THOUSAND AND ONE WORDS ABOUT TURKISH COFFEE
by Natasha
....And here it sits in front of me my little demitasse
cup of bittersweet dark crown mud, my addiction, the best friend of my
every lonely night when everyone on earth seems to be asleep and I have to
stay up sharp to work, like tonight typing my thousand and one words about
Turkish coffee. A sip of inspiration and let it flow.....
...."Ah, how sweet coffee tastes! Lovelier than a
thousand kisses, sweeter far than muscatel wine! I must have coffee...."
these are the words from KAFFEE KANTATE composed by Johann Sebastian Bach
in 1732. True, very true, but, alas, I don't have his genius to celebrate
coffee as well as he did. Instead, I can make a great cup for someone who
does...
What does humanity owe coffee besides this wonderful
piece of music? I am afraid to even start speculating, or it may look like
at least a millennium of our history is the way it is mostly due to the
discovery of coffee. So, use your imagination and blame it all on coffee
to the extent that you personally drink it. And keep in mind: DECAF
DOESN'T COUNT. As for me I drink it strong and heavy Turkish style, the
way it has been drunk by at least twenty generations of devoted coffee
drinkers all over the world. But let's start at the beginning.
Coffee came from the same place we now know as the
cradle of humanity. Of course, you know ..........Africa. We don't know
much about it's history prior to 1000 AD, but not because it had none, but
simply because WE don't know. The only thing that managed to slip into
available records is the fact that members of certain Galla tribes in
Ethiopia discovered a perfect remedy for lethargy: they took certain
berries, ground them up, mixed them up with animal fat, took it and went
and did what they were supposed to be doing.
About 1000 AD when some Arabs came traveling through
they must have looked a little too anemic to their African hosts. So,
generous Africans supplied them with a good amount of magical berries
which industrial Arab traders took back to their homeland and started
cultivating the plant for the first time on plantations. Thus the COFFEE
AGE BEGAN.
Alas, it took another four centuries to figure out that
coffee drinking was a communal thing and the first coffee shop in the
world opened. They called it "Kiva Han" and it was opened in
Constantinopol in 1457 AD. I don't know how it looked but I know for sure
that the way coffee was made there is exactly the same way I make it in my
little cafe in Lexington, Kentucky. 538 years later they brewed coffee in
little pots called ibriks or gezves invented in Egypt to cook coffee in
hot sand but doing pretty good on the stove tops ever since, in Middle
Eastern and Greek restaurants and in peoples homes all over the world.
You can judge the importance of coffee in 15th century
Turkey from the fact that at the time it became legal for a woman to
divorce her husband if he failed to provide her with her daily coffee
quota. "For better or for worse" but no morning coffee sounds like too
much of a nightmare. Well, our husbands have nothing to
fear -- we work and earn enough to buy our own coffee
and for as long as they can pay for the rest of the dinner our marriages
are okay. Is coffee still a family value? For family it certainly is.
For another two centuries Europeans didn't have the
privilege of having a good conversation over a cup of this delicious
stimulant in the company of total strangers until in 1645 when the first
coffeehouse opened in Italy, the in 1652 in England, in 1672 in Paris, in
1721 in Berlin and on, and on, and on until there's not a spot on the map
where coffee doesn't accompany all sorts of communications from the most
intimate confessions to passionate political debates.
Coffee was introduced to North America by Captain John
Smith who helped to found the colony of Virginia at Jamestown in 1607.
Since then the magic bean got perfectly naturalized, acquired citizenship
and seems to be doing great, businesswise. It has fully fulfilled the
American dream of every immigrant: it makes billions of dollars, keeps
congress awake and thus influences politics of a major superpower.
Many things have happened to coffee in its long journey
through the ages. Every century has delicately added something new to the
perfection of the art of coffee drinking until the 20th rushed in with its
passion to improve everything to the point when the improved version has
nothing to do with the original. Coffee was not the exception. In 1901
Japanese-American chemist Satori Kato of Chicago invented "instant" coffee
and there goes the little hand mill and the impatient waiting of a thirsty
connoisseur for the little ibrik pot to boil. Instant coffee is like love
making without foreplay, a rape of taste, a satisfaction of physical urge
without love.
Just two years later in l903, German coffee importer
Ludwig Roselius turns a batch of roasted coffee beans over to researchers,
who perfected the process of removing caffeine from the beans without
destroying the flavor And here comes Decaf-- a zombie drink stripped of
its soul. Not all of the innovations were that radical. In 1933 an Italian
named Calimani developed an alternative coffee maker that separated coffee
grounds from the liquid part of the drink without hurting its strength or
flavor: The "presso" coffee maker. In 1946 another Italian Achille Gaggia
perfected his espresso machine and created cappuccino, named for the color
of the robes of the capuchin monks. Well, I use my presso when I am in a
hurry, and make a cappuccino when not on weight loss control.
Anyway, I am not really writing about all these other
coffee drinks, not even the ones on our menu at "NATASHA'S CAFE," not a
delicious Abbot's Cappuccino, made with fresh cream instead of milk, not
about sweet chococcino, not about Coffee Zebra or Coffee Kilimanjaro, not
about the Dublin Mud made with Irish Cream liquor not about Cappuccino or
Borjia shakes and definitely not about our famous Ivan the Terrible, the
favorite of those who go for heavy caffeine. Neither am I writing about
the history of coffee.
All I was going to do is write a 1001 word passionate
hymn of love to the best, the oldest, the most authentic of all, the one
"sweeter than thousand kisses," to my favorite demitasse cup of Turkish
coffee. Alas, I am way over a 1001 words and I have not even started.
Well, stop by "Natasha's Cafe" and I'll simply make you your first cup.
Tasting is believing, isn't it....PS I don't know when and who designed
Mr. Coffee. I don't want to know. And if you know don't tell me. This
thing has nothing to do with coffee, and if you love coffee YOU know
why..... |